Geeetech GT2560 & – Firmwares and my experience.

First off the same intro,

Hello, My name is George Robles. I have been posting videos on YouTube about My Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B ( which I bought from Geeetech directly. I have been learning as I go but, I’m first going to do a little rambling so you know a little about me. i have extensive training in many fields (audio/ video service tech when I was in seventh grade, CNC machine operator at 18 and became a service tech for all machinery in the facility, at 21 I was back in school for airframe/(31 )powerplant tech. And keep going back for more in other fields, currently doing rv refrigerator refurbishing and 3d printing and any cars that crossed my paths) as well as the ability to understand anything mechanical, “how a machine works” is a fun puzzle to figure out, and will lead me to sometimes taking apart something I just bought (usually only if i don’t buy the the extended warranty) just to see how it works and see if I’m right or wrong about how it works and learn about it. i can learn just about anything from just watching another person, and become almost an expert if i’m allowed to ask questions. Yes, i know that sounds a little big headed but if you knew me in person you would understand. most of the people who know me know of my skills, i will stop by to visit a friends house and to open the gate was hard so, i just took ten seconds to bend a bar back in place and put it in the correct position. i do a lot of electrical work for them or what ever the job may be, yyyyYYYAAAYYyyy. I mean What ever you can do to help is great but, you never get what your worth. its different when you go help someone on the side of the road or really in need of help. yes, i actually do that.  one case a guy just needed to barrow my tools for a few minutes and take apart his valve heads. anyways,  i never like to brag or boast about myself but, i have to in a way on here so you know where i’m coming from and some of my skills. I can “multi-think”, is what i call it cause my vocab is small and i don’t have the best grammar, i can’t spell for crap, and to top it off i finger type so, i can think of a few things at the same time, usually when i’m fixing something. i will think of something i have to make and i will do several parts to the project at once, comes in handy when trouble shooting something, get my drift?

George Robles

Now that I have said something about myself you can also check me out on google+: https://plus.google.com/+georgeroblesjr/posts/p/pub

or  on my YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/georgeroblesjr

 

Okay, the GT2560…………………

was good….

It needed a splitter on the z axis, and they revised it and came out with the GT2560 Rev A with a second slot for the z axis pins

and then there where many people with the firmware that worked all except for the extruders.

Messages where sent and things where resolved with changing the firmware.

I had posted firmware that was not tested by me. I apologize if it was just not working.

Here is firmware for the GT2560 Pro B single extruder setup,

GT2560 Pro B

Here is firmware for the GT2560 Pro C dual extruder setup,

GT2560 Pro C

 

This is the Firmware I am testing for own my setup and includes the following enabled features;

  1. Auto-level/Auto-Tramming. 3-point now, grid in the next version.
  2. Thermal Runaway protection for the bed and extruder
  3. Enabled PID settings on heat bed.
  4. I have added the pins for analog to use a filament sensor. See my YouTube video here for that.

I have corrected the following;

  1. The direction of the encoder wheel is now CW to increase instead of CCW.
  2. I added GT2560 to the marlin firmware.
  3. I have added the correct PID (general) settings for the bed and extruder for these type of printers. Its close not exact.
  4. I have soldered on a solid copper wire to Analog pin 5 on the GT2560 to add the filament sensor.
  5. I have ordered a Filament Sensor which have all files even to make the PCB and even the code for the 8 bit mcu. I have been testing the sensor with a volt meter and it works quite well. I paid $60.00 and ordered it from here. Shipping was included. I only had to print out the case, he provided the the sensor board already setup to use right away. It even had the 4 screws needed to assemble the case together and a piece of drill rod to calibrate the sensor. Three case designs work at the moment. One for 3mm, one for 1.75mm filament, and one for a filament extruder. I am surprised actually that this has not caught on more. Was it price? Availability? For me, $60.00 bucks was pricey but i feel well worth it.

I am currently testing the firmware and the filament sensor. Finally!

This is the firmware that I am currently testing with all that is listed above.

GT2560 Rev A Single MK8

 

 

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59 thoughts on “Geeetech GT2560 & – Firmwares and my experience.

  1. Hi George,
    I downloaded and start using your I3 pro B firmware.
    Everything seems ok, except for a strange issue. If I calculate the travel of x or y axis, from 0 to 100, it measure 98 so I lose almost 2mm. Same thing if I calculate the travel from 10 to 20, or from 10 to 60. I always loose 2mm. Always same measure. Any tip? Maybe something current releated?

    Like

    1. Change step count from, 78.74 to 80.0 for both X and y. The line of code in configuration.h file #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT (78.74, 78.74, 2560, 95) Change these first two numbers so the it looks like this: (80.0, 80.0, 2560, 95)

      Like

  2. I am assisting my youngest daughter with her science project and need some assistance with this board.
    she is 10 and building a FDM printer for the science fair. we chose the GT2650 because of its compact size and design. the printer is built, and after some trial and error and my assistance they have firmware installed (we are using repetier)

    btw, if anyone is interested, to make repetier work choose-
    Processor: Amtel 8 based board (e.g. arduino mega) ultimaker
    Motherboard: Ultimaker Shield 1.5.7

    extruders and endstops are fine, but the I am trying to help them with fans/pins.h.
    i want to understand the pinouts for the fan headers. are they just exp3 or 4 on the ultimaker in disguise as i suspect? if so how do they map out for turning on, pwm etc., etc.

    the wiki shows the ports labeled/wired as follows (from the center to the bottom right)
    red blk yel
    * *] *]
    ] ]
    fan pwm

    yel * f
    blk *—-a 2
    red *—-n

    yel * f
    blk *—-a 1
    red *—-n

    yel * f
    blk *—-a 3
    red *—-n

    (odd that they go out of order)

    repetier’s ultimaker shield Pins.h defines by name a default Fan 1, Fan 2, (no fan 0 or fan 3)
    /****************************************************************************************
    * Ultimaker Shield pin assignment v1.5.7
    *
    ****************************************************************************************/
    #if MOTHERBOARD == 37
    #define ULTIMAKER_157
    #define KNOWN_BOARD 1

    #define ORIG_X_STEP_PIN 25
    #define ORIG_X_DIR_PIN 23
    #define ORIG_X_MIN_PIN 22
    #define ORIG_X_MAX_PIN 24
    #define ORIG_X_ENABLE_PIN 27

    #define ORIG_Y_STEP_PIN 31
    #define ORIG_Y_DIR_PIN 33
    #define ORIG_Y_MIN_PIN 26
    #define ORIG_Y_MAX_PIN 28
    #define ORIG_Y_ENABLE_PIN 29

    #define ORIG_Z_STEP_PIN 37
    #define ORIG_Z_DIR_PIN 39
    #define ORIG_Z_MIN_PIN 30
    #define ORIG_Z_MAX_PIN 32
    #define ORIG_Z_ENABLE_PIN 35

    // bed
    #define HEATER_1_PIN 4
    #define TEMP_1_PIN 10

    #define HEATER_0_PIN 2
    #define TEMP_0_PIN 8

    #define HEATER_2_PIN 3
    #define TEMP_2_PIN 9

    #define HEATER_3_PIN -1
    #define TEMP_3_PIN -1

    #define ORIG_E0_STEP_PIN 43
    #define ORIG_E0_DIR_PIN 45
    #define ORIG_E0_ENABLE_PIN 41
    #define E0_FAN_PIN -1
    // #define EXT1_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN E0_FAN_PIN

    #define ORIG_E1_STEP_PIN 49
    #define ORIG_E1_DIR_PIN 47
    #define ORIG_E1_ENABLE_PIN 48
    #define E1_FAN_PIN -1
    // #define EXT2_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN E1_FAN_PIN

    #define LED_PIN 13
    #define ORIG_FAN_PIN 7
    #define ORIG_PS_ON_PIN 12
    #define KILL_PIN -1
    //PIN that has to be turned on right after start, to keep power flowing.
    #define SUICIDE_PIN 54

    #define SCK_PIN 52
    #define MISO_PIN 50
    #define MOSI_PIN 51
    #define SDPOWER -1
    #define SDSS 53
    #define ORIG_SDCARDDETECT 38

    #define E0_PINS ORIG_E0_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E0_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E0_ENABLE_PIN,
    #define E1_PINS ORIG_E1_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E1_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E1_ENABLE_PIN,

    #endif

    help would be most appreciated.

    Like

    1. Okay, first off its a GT2560, which means Geeetech with atmel chip 2560. Hence the name.
      Not ultimaker anymore on my firmware setups, so take a look at config.h file where most user settings are, I have added GT2560 to the firmware. A Pro B setup is 200mm by 200mm X and y with max travels of 205mm. You can change this when you want. These have the reprap smart controller enabled alnog with many other saftey features. The pin out is in the firmware.zip see the labels for each but you can see I have enabled many links already to the many setups. GT2560 is just a control board compatible to the ramps1.4 and ultimaker board as far as most all pinouts. So double check the newest firmware. If stepper moves opposite then flip two center wire. Geeetech has there own repetier host. And you can also see the other post I have. There is more info through the bunch, so if you need more then this, let me know via my email, george@georges3dprinters.com and I will offer you a better price than what you pay online on my online store,
      https://georges3dprinters.com

      Like

  3. Hello, please can you tell me how do you menan that you added GT2560 to the marlin firmware? I have tried to find GT2560 (ATmega 2560) in firmware in “boards.h” without results. In Configuration.h on line 47 is “#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER” … I was thinking that exactly there would be the ATmega 2560 board. I have problem with Nema motors and LCD 2004 and I dont know where could be the problem … Thanks in advanced for your answer.

    Like

  4. Hi i have installed your rev A and uploded onto my i3 b at first the y axis was reversed so i changed from true to faulse this worked . But now the bed wont centre or go to the end stop/home any ideas what i need to change

    Like

  5. Hi
    first let me appologise for my stupidity but I am very new to this and hope you can help.
    Im trying to compile the software for a dual extruder Delta but it keeps telling me …
    using typedf-name ‘fpos_t’ after ‘struct’

    and i have no idea why.
    I would really like to get somewhere with this if you could help that would be great

    Like

  6. Hello, its a good and interesting article here! I want to do all, like, implement the filament sensor, or the autoleveling.
    I have a question, I need some help, i have the geeetech i3 Pro C (dual extruder). My extruders are for 1.75 filament with 0.3mm nozzle. I have buyed one extruder for 3mm filament, i have change it, and i have set Slicer and Repetier to the new extruder, but dont work appropriately, it looks like the stepper motor make skips. What can i do? I need to update the driver firmware?

    Like

    1. Need to calibrate your nozzle for the larger filament. 1.75 to 2.85 mm filament is a difference of volume flow through the Nozzle. And firmware is setup for both extruder to be the same size filament.

      Like

  7. Hi George, I am a complete novice at this but have just finished a build on the Acrilyc I3 with the GT2650 controller.
    I powered on and no smoke thank god and moved the LCD to prepare then Home and the Bed first goes to the end point without stopping the motor is grinding the belt trying to force it, hitting the end switch doesnt seem to stop it before it gets there, then after a few second the bed and motor stop and it is at the end point. same applies to all axis’s, I would say that i need to change the end stop position but where do i do that? I have been on the internet looking for such stuff, i havent yet connected the printer to a computer as I thought it would be better to set it up as a stand alone unit first.
    Please be gentle in your reply.
    Regards, john Hill Australia.

    Like

  8. Hello George I was following you on youtube in order to install 3d printer i3 black ecrylic until vedio 10 so. We stuck now with install ing gt2560 and lcd 2004 screen screen show print test and nothing more . Please help us I bought the printer for my son birthday

    Like

  9. After installing the firmware of Prusia I3 proB and set Repetier Slicer and here I am with another problem. When I want to start my first impression of the X and Y axes are going in the wrong direction and abut the endstop. Should we change the lines in the firmware?
    Thank you for your reply

    Like

    1. Need to change two lines of code in configuration.h file using Arduino ide click on tab”Define X/Y axis direction”. If it say true then it has to change to false. If false then change to true.
      Another way is to invert the wires in connection to motor. Some say flip two center wires 180° and try again. This is a bit tricky to do. Have to push in metal tab and push in the pull out the wire to remove. If clip is depressed correctly then will come out. If not then no movement.

      If have trouble, let me know. If you see video on my printer, will see my motor mount is different than yours.

      Like

    1. I have not used this sensor yet. Which is why I don’t sell it yet on my store.
      Normally, I use the min for z axis on my setup.
      G28 is first homing g-code I use, then I run G-29 for autolevel homing.

      If you do not home machine first. May not move untill right command is entered.

      If you want to try at own risk,

      Try this, G28 and probe should touch X then Y then go to center of bed.
      Then I run g-code G29 for autoleveling.

      If this works then will need to include it in startup g-code

      Like

  10. Hi! Im just getting started wth my new and first 3d printer, a geeetech i3 pro b.
    I was having a problem with the extruder motor not working until i tried the fw you posted here (not your version)
    I also noticed that the knob in the CLD moves in the opposite direction and is really annoying.
    Can you tell me where did you fixed that as in your comments?
    “The direction of the encoder wheel is now CW to increase instead of CCW”

    Thanks!!

    Like

    1. Switch numbers in BTn for the board you are using, I believe it’s setup as ultimaker board. Its in the pins.h file and under ultimaker board, the near bottom will say a group of three numbers, the ones that say BTN, swap the numbers. There are two.

      Liked by 1 person

  11. George – try as I might I cannot get any firmware uploaded. I get the timeout message. I hook up via usb, through the Arduino Ide, load firmware in arduino and run check, it all comes back ok, then I hit upload, watch the green bar till it gets 98% of the way through upload, then comes the time out error message. I am pretty sure the settings are right. Any ideas what I should try? I have the Pro B version. Thanks for the help. Ron

    Like

  12. Dear George
    first of all you are doing a great job here.
    My problem:
    I bought the Geetech I3 Pro. Build was easy but I have a huge problem connecting to the printer.
    1st I tried to connect directly to the gt2560 but I always get the “avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer” whenever I try to upload to the board.
    Of course I cant connect to any 3d program. I used 2 PCs Windows 10 & Windows XP. My arduino Duemilanova works fine on both PCs.
    2nd I tried to BURN the bootloader on the GT2560 with the Arduino. I folowed the instructions from the forum and when I plugged everything on the Arduino and plugged the USB the Arduino( the COM port) disappeared.
    When I removed the 5v wire it showed up again.
    So I decided to plug in the power on the GT2560. With the power on everything was OK with the com ports and arduino.
    So I tried to burn the bootloader and I got “avrdude: verification error; content mismatch”.
    After that I get a led blinking on the GT2560 and the Board is dead!
    – Bought a USBasp.The only think is that with the USBasp and avrdudess I connected everything and Avrdudess found the Atmega2560 successfully, and also burned the bootloader successfully.
    Then back to the arduino Marlin software excactly the same no upload.
    – also changed the crystal from an old Arduino I had. NOTHING
    also check the forum: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19120

    thanks in advance

    Like

    1. Hmm.

      What version of gt2560 do you have on the printer? Will say rev a or something. Or not. Which is legacy board.
      Have you read all three posts? The forth is a repost of the first one.

      May need to Skype with you.

      But you may get a free chance to troubleshoot if you catch me while streaming and doing q and a, then you may get the help you need for free.
      If you want one on one help then will need to pay for tech support

      Like

    2. Try this. Look for newest Arduino IDE version.
      Download from Arduinos website.
      Then when you get to the point of saving on you PC and gives you a choice of where to store program, just change label like to newest Arduino, and then save it. It will take care of all the drivers needed for USB. However, will need to use Arduino IDE version 1.0.1 to 1.0.4
      Any of those four and will be good.
      Set board to mega adk, com port, then hit compile, that’s saying you got the firmware from one of my links, and then if it compiled fine, hit the upload button, will compile again then give you a size of memory used, and start uploading.
      Board will reset on its own.
      If only going by LCD operation, suggest plug into a PC and check with repetier host

      Like

  13. No luck
    – Board is GT2560 rev A+
    – I did what you said with the Arduino IDE (now I get this driver USB Serial Port (COM3) FTDI 12/7/2013 ver. 2.8.30.0
    – Dont know if you read the forum post, when I first started the printer it worked fine from the LCD, except from the X-Axis. So I tried to upload the Marlin to corect the problem. No connection and They told me to burn the bootloader. SInce then I get nothing…just 2 black rows on the LCD and flashing led on the board (check the photos that I’ve just uploaded on the forum: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19120&start=20
    – This is what I get from the Arduino 1.0.4:

    avrdude: Version 5.11, compiled on Sep 2 2011 at 19:38:36
    Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/
    Copyright (c) 2007-2009 Joerg Wunsch

    System wide configuration file is “D:\SkyDrive\3d_PRINT\arduino-1.0.4\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf”

    Using Port : \\.\COM3
    Using Programmer : wiring
    Overriding Baud Rate : 115200
    avrdude: wiring_open(): releasing DTR/RTS
    avrdude: wiring_open(): asserting DTR/RTS
    avrdude: Send: . [1b] . [01] . [00] . [01] . [0e] . [01] . [14]
    avrdude: Recv:
    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
    avrdude: Send: . [1b] . [01] . [00] . [01] . [0e] . [01] . [14]
    avrdude: Recv:
    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
    avrdude: Send: . [1b] . [01] . [00] . [01] . [0e] . [01] . [14]
    avrdude: Recv:
    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
    avrdude: Send: . [1b] . [01] . [00] . [01] . [0e] . [01] . [14]
    avrdude: Recv:
    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
    avrdude: Send: . [1b] . [01] . [00] . [01] . [0e] . [01] . [14]
    avrdude: Recv:
    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
    avrdude: Send: . [1b] . [01] . [00] . [01] . [0e] . [01] . [14]
    avrdude: Recv:
    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
    avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer

    avrdude done. Thank you.

    Like

      1. Yes. But if you want what I have it’s right there. As in libraries that I used for the firmware. You may not get the same result by going to Arduinos website but your welcome to try.

        Like

  14. ok you mean download from your links arduino 1.0.1 AND the firmware? (the firmware you have there is Sanguinololou I think this is older)

    Like

      1. yes I used the I pro B for single extruder…I think I found you in twitter I allready send you pm many thanks for your time…but I start thinking that there is a hardware error or something wrong with my USB driver

        Like

    1. hahaha so I had the wrong twitter I think I got you now. The news are problem SOLVED. It was the USB driver. They send me this one: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM21224_Setup.zip
      Many thanks…now I have to calibrate it do you have any video lessons I can watch? (it is printing but the PLA doesn’t stick to the glass! I have ordered the 3DTouch auto levelling sensor but hasn’t arrived yet. Can I use your firmware now? Does it matter that I don’t have the sensor or any other of your mods?

      Like

      1. Can use now, but in stead of it homing z axis in corner will no longer happen. It will no home to the center of bed when running a “G28; home all axis” command.
        If using an mk8 or mk9, your pretty much there.

        Easiest way to calibrate, mark filament going into printer at 10mm, 15mm, and 20mm
        Heat extruder and call for filament of 10mm down via manual control. (You may need to have head parked away from bed or raise it up so plastic can come out of nozzle.)
        Then measure to you lines again and it should be 10mm shorter. If not, subtract the difference, and add that to the steps per mm for e axis.

        Like

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