My current Firmware for a GT2560 Rev A Board For a pro B setup & update.

About a 5 hour print.
Voroni Style Skull 1 piece print no support 0.2mm Layers.
I shrank it by 50% and the mesh was messed up as you can see its “topless”

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Before you just read this, please make sure you have read the other blog posts as well as they may contain info you may need or that I refer to or this is an update to.

I post as fast as I feel like as no one actually pays me for it. When people do pay me its usually to help them with their own setup which usually includes trouble shooting their build. The many I have helped see that every time and come back for more.

Yes, I do have ads on my YouTube videos and an option to donate money. The ads have not paid me 1 cent as of today January 4th, 2016. Only one person has actually donated anything but that was for my time helping him via Skype. If any of you like the stuff I do then please donate to the channel. If you would like something printed let me know via email and there is even a link on my YouTube channel. Spread the word about a place you get a human to help you through the difficult setup process so you don’t have to watch a 100 videos on YouTube to get the same info in one place. okay, enough of me trying to make money, time to get back at it.

Better then blue tape!
Better then blue tape!

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So anyways, I made these firmware setups for my own machine(s), this way everyone can have them as well as my Slic3r settings. You will see some differences among them.

Most are of the same setup with a few differences. I cant remember if these had the two extra temp presets i added but I will post that one for sure in the future.

NOTE: I would recommend adjusting the bed size in the firmware as well as the z-probe offsets. they will be different on every machine out there but the numbers will be close if you have a like setup. Always “fine-tune” your firmware. you may want different settings then what I have enabled for my own setup or you have a totally different machine. I am working on different printers at moment like the G2 Delta Rostock, Me Creator and the Pro X.

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I purchased a filament sensor from Objects With Intelligence for $60.00 with shipping to anywhere in USA included. Please let him know who sent you and maybe he will send me a new calibration stick as I lost mine (Dang it!) some where in the house or garage.

For those of you like me, handy with a soldering iron or 100/140 watt gun with a piece of 12ga. solid copper wire for a tip cause that’s how I roll, I just soldered on a wire to/between pins 4 and 5 with a single solid wire. A little tip, tin the wire with minimal solder and use flux when soldering to the the 2560 pins 4/5. Then I secured the wire with the LCD I needed a analog  pin so this is what I did. I have spoken to Geeetech and they are seriously considering my suggestions of making an open source version of the GT2560 Board with pinouts for all unused pins. Allowing those of you who want to tinker with the board by adding you’re own “upgrades/improvements”

I am quite happy with the item. You will need to print out your own case for it. he has three versions of it and here is the one I used and i printed out the 1.75mm version.

I did have to paint the case matte black. acrylic paint works great for this and your wife may already have some in the house as both my own mother has cases of theses paints as well as my fiance. I did not have any matte black paint and this saved me a trip to the store to resupply the garage as matte black is very handy for many optical projects.

Here is the Basic setup. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup (If your axis is reversed see below)

Same setup with auto level only ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup + Auto Level (If your axis is reversed see below)

Same setup with Filament sensor only. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup + Filament Sensor (If your axis is reversed see below)

Same setup with both Filament sensor and auto level. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup + Auto Level & Filament Sensor (If your axis is reversed see below)

Here is all 4 in one zip. File. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 All 4 Setups (If your axis is reversed see below)

This video here will show a little bit of what I did to my GT2560 Rev A Board to add the filament sensor.

And you will now have all of my working and non working slic3r settings. I figure you will delete what you don’t want. BEWARE! not all are tested or proven. AL is auto level and FS is filament sensor. 20×20 means 20 cm by 20 cm bed size which is 200mm by 200mm just so you get the basic idea how I labeled my own.

You can see a video on my 3D Printer Upgrades here. (video processing, link coming soon)

All my Slic3r configs currently testing and modifying are here

This was just easier for me to post. the ones I use are speed test or G’s setup or George’s setup etc. You will see the ones setup for the filament sensor and auto level as well as the many different g-codes I am playing with.

Well, its like three in the morning, time to post this and let me know what you think.

Good luck!

Until next time.

Update: February 5, 2017.

Axis reversed for the GT2560 Pro B/C Setup then you will be happy to see this has now been done for you for X axis, Y axis, and both X & Y axis.




All four setups with all the same options as above.

All 16 Different options

And with that, hopefully there will be less issues about axis moving the wrong direction.

I have been working on newest version of firmware with 3d touch and using Arduino IDE 1.8.1 and will try to add same features and post in the near future.


25 thoughts on “My current Firmware for a GT2560 Rev A Board For a pro B setup & update.

  1. hi. having problem with my prusa i3 pro c. the x axis went wrong direction, and i cant get it work. i have uploaded new firmware and tried to find answer from web. can you help me? do i need do move some jumpers or what??



    1. Either flip the two center wires as a quick fix, may have to invert axis on repetier host.
      Or just reverse the logic on the config.h tab in Ardunio, go to line that says invert axis, will have one for each axis. Then if it says false switch to true, if it says true then switch to false.


  2. Hey George. I got the files for the autolevel device from thingiverse, uploaded the firmware you provided (GT2560 rev A), and got everything installed (really cool design by the way). Im having an issue with the printer recognizing the endstop though. The switch i ended up using came out of an arduino kit I got from adafruit. Its the same size and shape as the one you show in your vids but its normally open. So I reversed the logic in the firmware for z-axis min stop, yet it still wont recognize the stop when homing. Homing direction and axis control are all normal, everything else works fine. I checked with a multimeter and there is no issue with the wiring. I have it plugged into the same location as z-min on the board. Any ideas? Also as an aside, the parameters you posted for the thermal runaway protection were killing prints due to false alarms. I would suggest changing the settings to 40s/10 deg. c for extruders and 20s/5 deg. c for bed heater. Those worked well for me, probably slightly different for every printer. Thanks for your help and keep up the good work! Youre a huge help to us 3D printing noobs.


  3. I am currently have a problem with my gt2560 with auto level everything was working fine came home today. My printer wont turn on unless I place metal in front of the sensor as soon as I move metal from the sensor it powers off. The power doesnt turn on completely only to were it turns on the lcd and some functions. No fans or temp if I hook up the usb it does the same thing is it a fuse or a short? So it partially turns on with either metal near the sensor or usb plugged in. Any ideas?


      1. There’s no power to run the temp functions I removed everything from the board and hooked it up to install firmware was able to do that. I hooked up just the display it will turn on so I hooked up just the power supply and disconnected the usb. It won’t turn on the display if I hook up my proximity sensor and place metal next to the display turns on. I hooked a fan up to the board the fan won’t turn on even with the sensor tripped


      2. ??? What type of sensor??? Need something rated close to the five volts. It may be shorting out. Also may have two wires backward. You sure you have a normally open setup? If I had you on Skype, then would be easier but cost you some $$$ I do what I can free. But I would feel more comfortable if I could ask questions on the fly.


      3. So I assume that you have figured out the issue since no response back.
        And sound like you burnt the fuses on the board. Or maybe just the 5v/3.3v regulator is burnt out.
        Hope all is well now.


  4. I think the firmware you’ve uploaded isn’t correct, the first one without modifications has problems with the extruder (I only made it working copying the configuration of the other firmwares) and with the autolevel and with the filament sensor the Z homing act weird (not actually do a homing).

    Could you upload the original firmware for the Rev A without modifications?

    And I have another question, how autocalibration works? Is it necessary any additional hardware?

    Than you very much!


  5. hello i downloaded your firmware and when i tried uploading it i got this error :
    exit status 1
    using typedef-name ‘fpos_t’ after ‘struct’


  6. Hi georgeroblesjr,
    Based on your video on Filament sensor, signal pin should be pin 97 & 96 of ATMega2560 not 4/5, am I right? Do I need to short the two pins or use one of them will be fine? Thx.


    1. No not right. Or actually depends on atmel chip orientation. Needs an analog pin, so see diagram. Then have to sort out what’s not used. See diagram at I did the firmware setup and added gt2560. Pins labeled. If the pin was incorrect it would not work in my video. See pin.h file for gt2560. Or your firmware and assign the pin desired. Analog pin only.
      If your really good at soldering, then only need pin 4 ( or 5 and switch in pins.h file.


      1. I have some questions on your modified firmware. In Boards.H, you define “#define BOARD_GT2560_Rev_A 15 // Geeetech’s GT2560”, but in pin.h, you reference to “#if MB(GT2560RevA)”. I think you should use “GT2560_Rev_A” or “GT2560RevA”, but not both. Also, you define “#define FILWIDTH_PIN 5” for pin 5, but pin 5 is used in “#ifdef ULTRA_LCD” block. Also, if you short 4 & 5 pin, I think it will be a problem. Pin 4 is used in “#define HEATER_BED_PIN 4”. Can you explain your logic? Thx.


      2. Great point on the board name. I actually need to fix that. Thanks.

        I will check other stuff later.
        And pretty sure you talking digital pin 4 vs analog pin 4. Could you please confirm.


      3. I’m using the same board like yours, GT2560 rev A with ATMEGA2560-16AU chip. The pin counts I stated are physical pin count on the chip (based the chip datasheet). Also, according the schematic of GT2560, PIN# 97 (ADC0) and PIN #96 (ADC1) are used for VOLTAGE SUPPLY DETECT. I like to post the schematic and the datasheet for you to review, but I can not attach anything in this Blog. But, you can find them on the internet. They are ATmega2560_ATmega2561_preliminary_complete.pdf and GT2560_sch.pdf.


      4. I had probably switched voltage sense after. I can’t remember at moment. I think that was the something I meant to fix before and still have not. It just sounds familiar but I may have done it in a fog of no sleep.


      5. I have rethought what I want to do, going to move the pins over to a different pin for others to see what I am going to be doing.
        Also, did you check the pins.h file? And the rest of firmware? Just let me know if you have or haven’t, I have been busy with some things. Your the first to bring up issue so I am trying to figure out how to go about it.


      6. Yes, I did check the pins.h. For GT2560, 4 in pin.h is for the BED & 5 is for LCD:
        #HEATER_BED_PIN 4
        #define LCD_PINS_D6 5
        By the way, thank you for checking it for me. After I put in the auto bed leveling sensor, I will work the filament width sensor in the new year.


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