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My current Firmware for a GT2560 Rev A Board For a pro B setup & update.

About a 5 hour print.
Voroni Style Skull 1 piece print no support 0.2mm Layers.
IMG_20151026_182531856_HDR
I shrank it by 50% and the mesh was messed up as you can see its “topless”

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Before you just read this, please make sure you have read the other blog posts as well as they may contain info you may need or that I refer to or this is an update to.

I post as fast as I feel like as no one actually pays me for it. When people do pay me its usually to help them with their own setup which usually includes trouble shooting their build. The many I have helped see that every time and come back for more.

Yes, I do have ads on my YouTube videos and an option to donate money. The ads have not paid me 1 cent as of today January 4th, 2016. Only one person has actually donated anything but that was for my time helping him via Skype. If any of you like the stuff I do then please donate to the channel. If you would like something printed let me know via email and there is even a link on my YouTube channel. Spread the word about https://georges3dprinters.com a place you get a human to help you through the difficult setup process so you don’t have to watch a 100 videos on YouTube to get the same info in one place. okay, enough of me trying to make money, time to get back at it.

Better then blue tape!
Better then blue tape!

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So anyways, I made these firmware setups for my own machine(s), this way everyone can have them as well as my Slic3r settings. You will see some differences among them.

Most are of the same setup with a few differences. I cant remember if these had the two extra temp presets i added but I will post that one for sure in the future.

NOTE: I would recommend adjusting the bed size in the firmware as well as the z-probe offsets. they will be different on every machine out there but the numbers will be close if you have a like setup. Always “fine-tune” your firmware. you may want different settings then what I have enabled for my own setup or you have a totally different machine. I am working on different printers at moment like the G2 Delta Rostock, Me Creator and the Pro X.

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I purchased a filament sensor from Objects With Intelligence for $60.00 with shipping to anywhere in USA included. Please let him know who sent you and maybe he will send me a new calibration stick as I lost mine (Dang it!) some where in the house or garage.

For those of you like me, handy with a soldering iron or 100/140 watt gun with a piece of 12ga. solid copper wire for a tip cause that’s how I roll, I just soldered on a wire to/between pins 4 and 5 with a single solid wire. A little tip, tin the wire with minimal solder and use flux when soldering to the the 2560 pins 4/5. Then I secured the wire with the LCD I needed a analog  pin so this is what I did. I have spoken to Geeetech and they are seriously considering my suggestions of making an open source version of the GT2560 Board with pinouts for all unused pins. Allowing those of you who want to tinker with the board by adding you’re own “upgrades/improvements”

I am quite happy with the item. You will need to print out your own case for it. he has three versions of it and here is the one I used and i printed out the 1.75mm version.

I did have to paint the case matte black. acrylic paint works great for this and your wife may already have some in the house as both my own mother has cases of theses paints as well as my fiance. I did not have any matte black paint and this saved me a trip to the store to resupply the garage as matte black is very handy for many optical projects.

Here is the Basic setup. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup (If your axis is reversed see below)

Same setup with auto level only ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup + Auto Level (If your axis is reversed see below)

Same setup with Filament sensor only. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup + Filament Sensor (If your axis is reversed see below)

Same setup with both Filament sensor and auto level. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 Pro B/C Setup + Auto Level & Filament Sensor (If your axis is reversed see below)

Here is all 4 in one zip. File. ( Leveling grid is for my bed and z probe offsets.)

GT2560 All 4 Setups (If your axis is reversed see below)

This video here will show a little bit of what I did to my GT2560 Rev A Board to add the filament sensor.

And you will now have all of my working and non working slic3r settings. I figure you will delete what you don’t want. BEWARE! not all are tested or proven. AL is auto level and FS is filament sensor. 20×20 means 20 cm by 20 cm bed size which is 200mm by 200mm just so you get the basic idea how I labeled my own.

You can see a video on my 3D Printer Upgrades here. (video processing, link coming soon)

All my Slic3r configs currently testing and modifying are here

This was just easier for me to post. the ones I use are speed test or G’s setup or George’s setup etc. You will see the ones setup for the filament sensor and auto level as well as the many different g-codes I am playing with.

Well, its like three in the morning, time to post this and let me know what you think.

Good luck!

Until next time.

Update: February 5, 2017.

Axis reversed for the GT2560 Pro B/C Setup then you will be happy to see this has now been done for you for X axis, Y axis, and both X & Y axis.

GT2560RevA_Y_Axis_Reversed

GT2560RevA_X_Axis_Reversed

GT2560RevA_X_And_Y_Axis_Reversed

All four setups with all the same options as above.

All 16 Different options

And with that, hopefully there will be less issues about axis moving the wrong direction.

I have been working on newest version of firmware with 3d touch and using Arduino IDE 1.8.1 and will try to add same features and post in the near future.

Geeetech GT2560 & – Firmwares and my experience.

First off the same intro,

Hello, My name is George Robles. I have been posting videos on YouTube about My Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B ( which I bought from Geeetech directly. I have been learning as I go but, I’m first going to do a little rambling so you know a little about me. i have extensive training in many fields (audio/ video service tech when I was in seventh grade, CNC machine operator at 18 and became a service tech for all machinery in the facility, at 21 I was back in school for airframe/(31 )powerplant tech. And keep going back for more in other fields, currently doing rv refrigerator refurbishing and 3d printing and any cars that crossed my paths) as well as the ability to understand anything mechanical, “how a machine works” is a fun puzzle to figure out, and will lead me to sometimes taking apart something I just bought (usually only if i don’t buy the the extended warranty) just to see how it works and see if I’m right or wrong about how it works and learn about it. i can learn just about anything from just watching another person, and become almost an expert if i’m allowed to ask questions. Yes, i know that sounds a little big headed but if you knew me in person you would understand. most of the people who know me know of my skills, i will stop by to visit a friends house and to open the gate was hard so, i just took ten seconds to bend a bar back in place and put it in the correct position. i do a lot of electrical work for them or what ever the job may be, yyyyYYYAAAYYyyy. I mean What ever you can do to help is great but, you never get what your worth. its different when you go help someone on the side of the road or really in need of help. yes, i actually do that.  one case a guy just needed to barrow my tools for a few minutes and take apart his valve heads. anyways,  i never like to brag or boast about myself but, i have to in a way on here so you know where i’m coming from and some of my skills. I can “multi-think”, is what i call it cause my vocab is small and i don’t have the best grammar, i can’t spell for crap, and to top it off i finger type so, i can think of a few things at the same time, usually when i’m fixing something. i will think of something i have to make and i will do several parts to the project at once, comes in handy when trouble shooting something, get my drift?

George Robles

Now that I have said something about myself you can also check me out on google+: https://plus.google.com/+georgeroblesjr/posts/p/pub

or  on my YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/georgeroblesjr

 

Okay, the GT2560…………………

was good….

It needed a splitter on the z axis, and they revised it and came out with the GT2560 Rev A with a second slot for the z axis pins

and then there where many people with the firmware that worked all except for the extruders.

Messages where sent and things where resolved with changing the firmware.

I had posted firmware that was not tested by me. I apologize if it was just not working.

Here is firmware for the GT2560 Pro B single extruder setup,

GT2560 Pro B

Here is firmware for the GT2560 Pro C dual extruder setup,

GT2560 Pro C

 

This is the Firmware I am testing for own my setup and includes the following enabled features;

  1. Auto-level/Auto-Tramming. 3-point now, grid in the next version.
  2. Thermal Runaway protection for the bed and extruder
  3. Enabled PID settings on heat bed.
  4. I have added the pins for analog to use a filament sensor. See my YouTube video here for that.

I have corrected the following;

  1. The direction of the encoder wheel is now CW to increase instead of CCW.
  2. I added GT2560 to the marlin firmware.
  3. I have added the correct PID (general) settings for the bed and extruder for these type of printers. Its close not exact.
  4. I have soldered on a solid copper wire to Analog pin 5 on the GT2560 to add the filament sensor.
  5. I have ordered a Filament Sensor which have all files even to make the PCB and even the code for the 8 bit mcu. I have been testing the sensor with a volt meter and it works quite well. I paid $60.00 and ordered it from here. Shipping was included. I only had to print out the case, he provided the the sensor board already setup to use right away. It even had the 4 screws needed to assemble the case together and a piece of drill rod to calibrate the sensor. Three case designs work at the moment. One for 3mm, one for 1.75mm filament, and one for a filament extruder. I am surprised actually that this has not caught on more. Was it price? Availability? For me, $60.00 bucks was pricey but i feel well worth it.

I am currently testing the firmware and the filament sensor. Finally!

This is the firmware that I am currently testing with all that is listed above.

GT2560 Rev A Single MK8